Chappell Roan is a bona fide feminine nouns. If you haven’t been riding the girl pop wave these past few months, you can dance along to “Hot to Go!” and romanticizing your life into ‘Red Wine Supernova’, what were you even doing?

The pop star became an instant icon this summer with hit after hit (both old and new, thanks to the meteoric rise of her 2022 single “Pink Pony Club”), and her Coachella performance broke the internet and drew one of the largest crowds world. recent memory for a relative newcomer.

Roan is like if Boy George and Cyndi Lauper had a baby, but cooler. And just like those pop idols from the 80s, her look is no less revolutionary. She follows the internet’s Hollywood Hair Theory with an instantly recognizable crown of auburn curls and pushes the boundaries of makeup with her signature vaudeville mask and deliberately lipstick-stained teeth. But it’s her intricate and theatrical costumes, which reference everything from historical clothing to folklore and fantasy, that make her the style icon of the TikTok era.

One of her most memorable looks yet: a psychedelic Swan Lake treat for Jimmy Fallon Tonight Toon set – courtesy of fashion designer Gunnar Deatherage. And now that dream team has collaborated on a new career moment Saturday evening live.

Deatherage worked with Roan’s stylist, Genesis Webb, to create a look inspired by the famed Casino De Paris music hall, home to the city’s greatest dancers, musicians and performers, including Josephine Baker during the Jazz Age.

“There were beautiful photographs of dancers from the 1915 Casino De Paris that almost felt like paintings,” Deatherage says of the inspiration. “The color palettes were complex, the shapes were unique and imaginative, and it was all very striking in an old-fashioned way, so we decided to combine elements from a few of those photos, and then I added some of my own ideas that felt complementary with the concept.”

The resulting ensemble blends old and new, combining a historically accurate emerald green dance costume with an exaggerated hat that can only be described as Napoleonic and dragon wings. Deatherage says this is “by far” the most time he has spent on a garment, and it took over 500 hours and a full month for the overall look to come to life.

“The dragonfly wings are sculpted from layers of thick foam and then sewn together and attached to a hand-painted leather strap and embellished with over a thousand chartreuse crystals,” says the designer. “The garland around her waist features hand-pressed vintage brass figures to bring the inspiration back to the vintage circus feel with little lions, masked faces and elephants adorning the gold braided edge.” Even her socks were custom made from “hand-dyed wool, which was taped together to create the striped motif, and we also added a glass bead border to the top of the sock,” says Deatherage.

An instant camp classic, the singer’s over-the-top headpiece was a labor of love. “It was something both Chappell and Genesis wanted for the performance, so we found a way to bring it to life,” says Deatherage. “My partner, Christopher Minafo, actually made the hat for me. We often collaborate on the looks and enjoy creating together in the same space,” he adds. “The hat went through many iterations before arriving at the final look, but we love it in all its lampshade/Napoleon glory!”

It’s not hard to understand why Roan and her stylist turned to Deatherage for this ambitious project. The fashion designer, who was cutting his teeth Project job And Project track Allstarshas an aesthetic that draws from theatricality, cinema and the history of costuming – something any Chappell Roan fan will recognize in her performance clothing. However, its Francophile SNL The promo look was originally tailor-made for a performance, but in its grand final form the team decided it was better for a “still moment rather than jumping around on stage”, according to Deatherage.

While Deatherage’s design partnership with the pop star and her stylist is based on physicality, it all started with a DM. “I first met Chappell through her Coachella set and I loved that costume and attitude so much that I contacted her stylist Genesis, who I already followed, and let her know I wanted to collaborate,” he says . “Chappell had a theatricality I hadn’t seen in a long time and a slowness I knew I had to be a part of.”

This Flapper Era creation is only the second in what will undoubtedly be a long-lasting collaboration between the fashion designer and Genesis. “We have a great working relationship and I think she has impeccable taste. She has yet to come to me with a mood board that doesn’t make me swoon,” he adds.

“When we first started working together, she said they enjoyed working with designers and embracing the things they were passionate about, and my experience has been exactly that!”